He was a self-taught chef, and he opened his first restaurant in the 200-year-old house he was born in. Nevertheless, what started as a humble bistrot developed into a restaurant awarded with three Michelin stars. A fierce critic of molecular gastronomy, Santamaria had quite a few rivals. But as Dale Fuchs wonders, 'Were they too harsh on the man who longed for the days when a potato omelette looked like a potato omelette?'
RIP
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